Israel Day 5

Early up this morning – but it was too early to get into the gym on Sabbath morning, so I had a swim in the hotel pool instead. It’s original to the hotel (1930s), so just a rectangular pool with Art Deco mosaics on the wall. Good for a few lengths!
After a leisurely breakfast I set off around the North of the city wall to the Moslem cemeteries on the Eastern wall, down to the Lion gate – so called because of Suleiman’s decorative leopard motifs in the stonework. What did the crusaders know about wild cats? The leopards themselves reminded me of the stonework of the Ishtar gate in Babylon – I wonder if that’s where the Moslem’s got the idea for the motifs.

The gate itself marks the beginning of the Via Dolorosa, the road tradition says Jesus walked with His cross to Calvary. In Jesus’ time the gate here was the Sheep Gate, where the sacrificial lambs were brought in to the Temple mount.

However, I turned in the opposite direction, across the Kedron valley (relatively shallow here) and passed Gethsemane to follow the old road towards Bethany. There were many tourist coaches parked along the road here, even though it was still quite early (about 9.30 am).

Back down to the Church of All Nations at Gethsemane, and I thought I’d go in. The building is 20th Century, though on the site of Crusader and Byzantine Churches. The altar is claimed to be on the rock that Jesus leant against while praying just before He was arrested – though how anyone could know that beats me: even the disciples fell asleep while He prayed.
As I sat there, a touring group of American Catholics gathered round the altar, and their Bishop began Mass. I stayed: it was said in English, and was quite moving. The Bishop spoke of a friend who had been dying of cancer; once wealthy, he had lost all that had once meant so much to him – all he had left was Jesus, and it was enough. I didn’t take communion, as the Roman Catholic Church doesn’t allow non-members to receive, but I thanked the Bishop for his service.

Out in the garden were a number of old olive tree.

It was still busy with pilgrims walking the perimeter, so I didn’t stay long and went back along the city walls to the Rockefeller Museum. I discovered that many of the Israel Museum artefacts were being displayed here while the other place was being rebuilt (see earlier post), so had an interesting couple of hours wandering around.

Through the Damascus Gate into the busy Souks of the old city, but I couldn’t really be bothered with haggling for tat, so went back to Henry’s Café opposite the David Citadel for lunch. I had seen enough by this stage – a kind of archaeology overload – so went back to the hotel to read on the terrace and later watch TV. As Sabbath ended I went back to Jaffa Street, which was still quiet, although a few places were opening up. Bought a Shawarma, which is a kind of large kebab wrapped in pitta bread and very filling.

Time for an early night, as I had booked a Sherut (shared taxi) for 4.45 am. Time to go to the airport to meet the other cyclists…