Israel

Elder son did a sponsored cycle ride in Israel recently, averaging 50 miles a day - he had to spend some weeks getting fit enough to take part, but it was all worthwhile as he raised a more than creditable sum for a Christian hospital in Israel which takes patients from all faiths.

He has sent me several emails about his tour of Jerusalem and environs prior to meeting up with the rest of the party.

Here is the first one:

I bought a note-book in Edinburgh Airport on the way out, so I've got a reasonable record to work from, keeping the events in order, etc. I'll also include some pictures as we go.

I had checked in online at home, so had tons of time to kill at the airport, and no problems getting the luggage checked directly through at Heathrow. Mind you, on the flight down to London I was sitting next to a Whisky blender (now THERE'S a job!) who had a few horror stories about lost luggage. On his advice I asked to trace the luggage when I got to Terminal 4 - they could tell me it had arrived at the terminal, which would probably mean it was OK. It arrived with me at Tel Aviv, which was better than one of the other cyclists who came later - his luggage took an extra two days to reach him.

It was an 'overnight' flight arriving 5.15 am local time (=3.15 am GMT - no wonder I was spaced out for the first day). In the arrivals hall a taxi driver offered to take me to Jerusalem for about 250 NIS but I turned him down: once outside I found the Sheruts the guide books mentioned - shared 12-seaters that take you to your door. 45 NIS plus 5 Shekel tip. Took a little longer with others to drop off first, but we were all going to Jerusalem.

I was staying at this place - the Jerusalem YMCA, architect was the same one who built the Empire State Building (do you think he was compensating for something?)

Went off to see the city, heading straight across the road past the King David Hotel (no sign of the bomb damage from 1947) to the Old City, and followed the medieval wall down to The Wall (as the Israeli's describe it). It was still before 9 am, so few tourists and lots of Hasidim.

The Israelis have excavated down below the arch at the back of this picture: the Western wall of the temple platform continues as far under the modern 'ground level' as it does above it. I persuaded a ticket seller to sell me a single ticket to the excavations (normally groups only) and down I went. One of the stones is about the size of a London bus. How did Herod's men get it in place?? The Moslems are very suspicious, accusing the Israeli archaeologists of trying to undermine the Dome on the Rock.
Headed through the Via Dolorosa and a quick tour of the Holy Sepulchre (not my favourite place) to the Jaffa Gate (middle of the West side) and went onto the ramparts to follow Suleiman's wall round to the Lion Gate at centre of the East side, and back through the markets to the Jaffa Gate again. Hot and dry, desperate for a beer, finally found a Cafe there to sell me one. Or two.
After a lunch at the Cafe I returned to the YMCA for a snooze, then up at 5 pm to look for dinner - it's already getting dark, which feels strange in the heat of 'summer'. Up Jaffa Street - a major West Jerusalem area for eateries and cafes - I came across a demonstration. Just academics and teachers complaining about poor pay in the schools and universities, probably more civilised than UK. Found a fast-food outlet and bought my first Falafel - Pitta pocket with mix of salads and pastes, with fried balls of chickpeas. Yum!

to be continued...........